Shopping in Cotonou: Dantokpa, Erevan and the best markets
Cotonou has two shopping worlds: huge, buzzing open-air markets where you bargain for everything, and calm supermarkets with fixed prices. Here's how to enjoy both, without getting lost or overpaying.
At a glance
| Where | Best for | Bargaining? |
|---|---|---|
| Dantokpa | Fabric, spices, almost everything | Yes |
| Ganhi Market | Food, fabric, jewellery, cosmetics | Yes, gently |
| Erevan | Groceries, toiletries, imported goods | No, fixed prices |
Dantokpa Market
Dantokpa, often just called Tokpa, is one of the biggest open-air markets in West Africa. It sits beside the lagoon and sells almost everything: wax fabric, spices, electronics, household goods, fresh food and more. It's loud, colourful and unforgettable.
Before you go:
Don't wander alone on your first visit. It's enormous, and it's very easy to get lost. Go with someone who knows it
Bring small notes and keep your phone and money close
Bargain politely. The first price is rarely the final price
Go in the morning, before the heat and the biggest crowds
Ganhi Market
For a calmer market experience, the modern Ganhi Market opened in December 2024, near Notre-Dame Cathedral in the city centre. Under its umbrella-shaped metal roof are two airy floors with sections for food, fruit and vegetables, fabrics, jewellery, cosmetics and leather goods, plus shops and restaurants. Most of the stalls are run by women. It's cleaner and easier to navigate than Dantokpa, and a great first market to visit.
Erevan supermarket
Erevan is Cotonou's best-known supermarket, and there are two branches. The one on the airport road is the bigger one, so head there for the widest range of groceries, toiletries and imported products.
Two things nobody tells you:
There are no free nylon bags. Bring your own bag, or you'll pay for one at the till
Nobody packs for you. It's very British: the cashier scans, and you bag your own shopping. Be ready so you don't hold up the queue
Prices are fixed and clearly labelled, so it's the easiest place to shop if you don't want to bargain.
On the map: Dantokpa Market · Ganhi Market · Erevan, airport road
Insider tip: Check the price of something at Erevan first. Then you'll know what's fair when you see it in the market.
How to bargain without offending anyone
Greet the seller before asking the price. "Bonjour" goes a long way
Offer around half and meet in the middle
Smile, stay friendly, and be ready to walk away
Once you agree a price, pay it
Frequently asked questions
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Dantokpa, one of the largest open-air markets in West Africa.
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Yes, but it's huge and crowded. Go with someone who knows it, keep valuables close and carry small notes.
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Not free ones at Erevan. Bring your own or pay for a bag.
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Rarely. Markets run on cash, so bring CFA in small notes.
Changing a larger amount? Meet my dad.
Licensed in Cotonou for 30 years. He handles larger amounts, and his team comes to meet you.
- Naira, CFA, pounds, dollars✓
- Larger amounts✓
- His team comes to you✓
